wThe Old Bridge, Mostar
Day 103. We are currently in Mostar after spending a couple of days in Dubrovnik.
Sheila and I were very pleased to meet and spend a day with Keith and Clare in Dubrovnik. Their cruise ship docked in Dubrovnik. We enjoyed our day mooching around the Old Town and took the cable car up the mountain to get spectacular views up and down tbe coast and a birds eye view of the old town.
Our visit to Dubrovnik was spoiled by our hostel. It was a grubby establishment that was a 20 minute walk from the old town up a very steep hill. The temperature was in the mid 30’s and being the middle of August, it was absolutely rammed full of tourists. They say that tourism is a double edged sword. It provides much needed employment and revenue for local residents. However, too many tourists can change the charecter of a city.
Game of Thrones has a lot to answer for. Tens of thousands of its devotees flock to Dubrovnik every year to see the setting of the series first hand.
Twenty years ago the resident pop of the old town was 6000+. Now, it is just 1000. Many of the residents have converted their homes in to tourist accommodation or sold up to someone who then converts the building in to tourist accommodation. The result is a homogenised ‘film set’ full of fancy restaurants and souvenir shops. For me, Dubrovnik now rates with Las Vegas. Somewhere I would not return to.
We left Dub and took a bus to Mostar. It was a long journey along the coast road but the beautiful views made it worth it. We were lucky enough to bag the front seats and so, had fabulous panoramic views. Tourist tip of the day: always reserve the front seats on a coach to ensure the best views.
After the dreadful accommodation in Dub, we took no chances and made sure we reserved good quality digs. We were not disappointed. Villa M is newly opened this year. High quality and spotlessly clean.
I have been looking forward to visiting Mostar for some time. Even so, it has been a revelation. The mix of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian heritage. Its Bosnian, Croat and Serbian ethnicity. Its Muslim, Christian and Eastern Orthodox religions. The 92-95 War. A wonderfully exotic mix.
We took the obligatory ‘free’ walking tour. The two hour tour turned in to a 2.5 hour tour. Our Guide Sheva, who I estimate is 45ish, born and bred Bosniak from Mostar, not Bosnian, there is a subtle difference I am informed. I was spellbound. Sheva gave the Group a tour of the sights, added a historical context. It was however, his political perspective that fascinated me.
This morning Sheila and I visited the Museum of War and Genocide victim’s 1992-1995. It paints a stark picture of the atrocities of a barbaric war. I have previously visited the Holocaust Museums in both Tel Aviv and Berlin. I don’t remember either of them affecting me to the extent of the Mostar museum.
The War ended 24 years ago in 1995 and yet the scars on the buildings are all around to see. Sheva informed us that residents were trapped in the city during the war and couldn’t get too the cemetery on the edge of town to bury their dead. So, they were forced to bury them in the city parks and green spaces These areas are now full of graves. A fact that when I was told while I was looking at them, brought me to tears.
Mostar, I adore you but we must leave. We’re off tomorrow morning to the coastal town of Kotor in Montenegro for… you guessed it more R and R.
Wandering Boomers 