I found the UNESCO designated city of Santiago de Compostela fascinating. The well preserved old city is bigger than I imagined it would be. The new city is attractive in that it has not been homogenized like many modern cities. If you are looking for a city break. Look no further is my recommendation.
We spent two days mooching about the city. There is a tangible happy atmosphere. No doubt the pilgrims add positively to the atmosphere. They are all eurphoric after completing their personal challenges.
I mentioned in an earlier blog that I was getting a little panicky because of the difficulty booking accommodation in Santiago. Well, as it turned out, I appear to have stumbled across a little gem. It was a well equipped apartment just an 8 minute walk from the Cathedral.
To my total surprise, Finn, not only agreed to join us for the 4 day hike to Finisterre, he was positively keen on the idea.
I had been a little concerned about navigating our way to Finisterre. I didn’t think there would be waymarkers, there are and I was able to download an app. that uses GPS. So, even I can’t go wrong.
We set out relatively late at 7.30am this morning. The weather was perfect for hiking and we completed the 20 km walk to Negreira by 1pm. In the conditions, Sheila and I could have walked further but as it was Finn’s first day, we didn’t want to put him off this hiking business.
We stopped for refreshments in a village called Maceira. You can imagine my surprise when I was served by an Englishman who had lived in Spain for 22 years. Apparently, he moved there as a boy along with his parents who were both school teachers.
I am now salivating and looking forward to a very reasonably priced ‘menu del peregrino’ (pilgrims menu).
Well, we made it. Yesterdays walk of 25 km was hugely enjoyable for a number of reasons. Undulating forest paths without any serious hills to climb. My feet have eventually stopped aching. The weather was perfect for walking… but the most compelling reason was that we knew we were only a modest days walk from Santiago. There were not crowds of pilgrims that we had been told to expect. With that said, we spotted a few peculiar looking pilgrims. In some cases, it was easy to see which of them had walked 100 kms and which had walked 800+ kms.
We spent last night at Monte do Gozo overlooking Santiago. It is operated by the municipality. Our guidebook described it as soulless! How wrong it was. I met a Japanese grandfather of 5, a very courteous South Korean woman. A politically aware American and a humerous Swede amongst others. The lesson must be, don’t judge a book by its cover.
We got up at 6am to watch the sun rise over Santiago before casually walking the 5 kms through the suburbs in to the city. Sheila treated herself to chocolata y chorros (doughnuts dipped in hot choculate) for breakfast. I conservatively went for coffee and toast.
After breakfast we walked through the old town in to the Praza do Obradoiro to get our first up close view of Santiago’s magnificent cathedral.
There were only a handful of people in the plaza, justifying our decision to stop 5K short the previous night and walk in to the city early. As you can imagine, our spirits were high. Sheila and I both felt euphoric.
We took photos to record the moment and wandered around the large plaza taking some time to savour the moment before scuttling off to claim our certificates. We had been told that there are normally long queues. We were in and out in 30 minutes clutching our certificates. The woman who served me asked me if I had walked all the way from Irun. I replied “every step”. If she had challenged me further I could have evidenced it by taking off my shoes and socks. I promise you my feet look like they have walked 500 miles.
The day got even better when we met up with Finn who flew in to Santiago at 9am for a two week holiday with us.
We are already planning the next adventure and I will keep my very modest readership updated.
Our 25 km walk from Miraz to Sobrado do Monxes was idyllic along forests paths and through remote rural hamlets. We have spent most of our time fairly close to civilisation up to now (with a few exceptions) but yesterday was different. No sounds whatsoever except birds chirping. It was frankly my idea of heaven.
We decided to spend the night in the Monestario de Santa Maria de Sobrado de los Monjes. It was built in the 10th century by the Benedictine monks. By the 12th century it had been abandoned and was then refounded by the Cisterian monks. It is believed to be the oldest Cisterian monestery in Spain. In 1954 Trappist monks began reconstruction and a new Trappist community settled in 1966.
They still have €M’s to spend to get the cathadral operational it was however, a fascinating if somewhat austere place to spend a night.
The Camino del Norte joins the Camino Frances at Arzúa. Our guidebook had warned us to prepare ourselves for a huge increase in the number of pilgrims. The Camino Frances is by a long way the most popular camino route. An estimated 180,000 people walked it in 2018.
We approached Arzúa with a little trepidation. Over our picnic lunch we watched a procession pass us. Once we left the town to complete our 3 hour afternoon walk we saw only half a dozen pilgrims all afternoon. There were that many people on the CdN. Sheila thinks they walk in the morning and had finished by lunch time. The acid test will be tomorrow morning.
We have one full days walk (25 km) tomorrow. On Wednesday we have planned our triumphant 5 km walk in to Santiago. That will be 500 miles walked in 36 days… I cant believe it is all ending so quickly.
We have had a series of difficult days. Thursday we walked 27 km from Lorenza to Abadin. A never ending climb to 550m with intermittent showers. The best part of the day was Albergue Xabarin. It is now my new favourite albergue. What did I like about it. Well, a fully equipped modern kitchen and super bathrooms. I have noticed that the albergues have improved since we have arrived in Galicia to the extent that I have stoppped pinning for a hotel every other night.
Other things I’ve noticed about Galicia is that the bread is better. There are also very frequent waymarkers. Another innovation is that every waymarker has the distance from Santiago written on it. So, we knew when we were exactly 100 kms from our destination earlier this afternoon.
In my opinion, there is no need for a GPS phone app or even a guide book here. I challenge anyone to get lost on the Camino in Galicia. That certainly was not the case in the other regions.
Yesterday, the walk from Abadin to Villalba, while just 21 kms, seemed hard to me. I put it down to the culmination of a series of hard days. My new shoes are hurting my feet and have given me blisters. That hasn’t helped. Having said that, I’m much fitter and can’t wait to weigh myself when I get to Santiago.
Today, we doubled up two stages and walked 33 kms to Miraz. Finn flies in to Santiago to visit us on Wednesday 12th June and we are being forced to get a wiggle on to get there to greet him.
We are staying at the CSJ Albergue San Martin in Miraz tonight. It is operated by the Confraternity of Saint James based in the UK.
Some albergues are staffed by volunteers. That is one of the ways they keep the costs to the pilgrims down. Normally, you volunteer for a set period of two weeks. No more or less. I think it would be an interesting thing to do. You would meet lots of pilgrims from all corners of the world. It would also, be a way to give something back. They normally, only accept volunteers who have actually completed the camino. It is something I would like to do and if I do, it will probably be in this albergue in Miraz because of its UK links.
The guidebook graded the hike from Ribadeo to Lourenza (29 kms) as challenging. We resolved to get an early start and were walking out of town by 7.15am.
Almost immediately, we noticed changes now we’re in Galicia. The Camino signage improved. It would be difficult to take the wrong path in Galicia. We spent the day walking along woodland paths and enjoyed some marvellous views across the hilly countryside.
I found the going tough especially the 350m climb. Sheila on the other hand appears to get stronger by the day. She climbed those 350m like it was level ground.
We got ourselves in to a bit of a panic yesterday. Being just one week from Santiago we thought we really needed to book accommodation in the city especially as we have been informed that there is a 4-day fiesta from 10th-14th June. We will hopefully arrive on 12th right in the middle of it.
I started to make some calls. After a dozen or so with everyone telling me ‘lo siento, estamos completos’ (sorry we’re fully booked), I was becoming concerned thinking I would need to book somewhere a considerable distance from the city centre. Luckily, I eventually managed to book a hotel for a couple of nights just an 8 minute walk from the Cathedral.
When we started in Irun, for 3 weeks we never booked a hotel or hostel, we just bowled up. Not once were we turned away. We have noticed that there are a lot more pilgrims on the trail now and we need to book our accommodation a day in advance. Not only that, we normally have to provide an estimate of tbe time we will arrive. This is because the proprietar will let your room to someone else if you don’t get there. This will get worse as we get closer to Santiago.
With just six days to go before we arrive in Santiago, Sheila and I both feel sad that our adventure is coming to an end. Just when I have learned how to do this ‘walk 20+ km a day. Day after day. It is all coming to an end.
We have now hiked through three regions, the Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias. Yesterday, we left Asturias and arrived in Galicia.
Our walk from La Caridad to Ribadeo totalled 23 kms. There were two options. We selected the coastal route for a couple of reasons. It was to be our last opportunity to take in the sea views. From now on we will travel inland, southwest towards Santiago de Compostela. In addition, our guidebook suggested that the other route was a little dull, scenerywise.
The weather forecast indicated a 40% chance of rain for most of the day. Luckily, most of it missed us but we did get caught by a couple of brief showers. The weather was however, dull and heavily overcast. I find it really quite uncomfortable wearing my rainwear. It might keep the rain out but even wearing good quality rainwear, makes me perspire.
We walked with Zena, a young German who only started the Camino two days ago and wanted the reassurance of walking with a couple of ‘old stagers’ so she would not lose her way. It’s funny how we have gone from complete novices to old stagers in four weeks. Zena has recently relocated to Lake Constance. When she goes home and before she starts her new job in July, she plans to cycle around the 250 km perimeter of Lake Constance.
The fourth person in our walking party was Jesus, a Mexican/American who lives in Dallas. He’s retired from the US military. This is Jesus’ second Camino. Last year he completed the Camino Frances.
We crossed a very high 600m long road bridge to enter Ribadeo. The pedestrian walkway is a one metre wide path on the side of the four lane bridge. A bit of an architectual afterthought. Perhaps, because I was exhausted having walked 20+ kms at that stage. Anyway, I came over all peculiar. A touch of vertigo I guess. It was the longest 600 metres I’ve ever walked. I focused on my feet, the roadway, the pedestrian walkway. Anything, but down to the water below.
Ribadeo is an interesting town with plenty for the visitor. Normally, we are just too exhausted at the end of a days walk and do not have the inclination to walk around the towns we stay in. Yesterday, however, was different. I was keen to invest in a new pair of hiking shoes. I am now the proud owner of a pair of Chiruca’s. I don’t expect readers to be in the least interested. In case anyone is, they have a gore-tex lining and a vibram sole.
I have been having serious wifi issues and difficulties uploading images on to this WordPress site. I’m told that is a common problem for beginners.
These structures historically were built to store crops to keep them dry and safe from predators. They appear very elaborate for that purpose
Sheila and I have been making steady progress. We arrived in La Caridad this afternoon from Luarca (30.2 kms) it drizzled for much of our 8 hour hike. When I arrived at Albergue Xana I told the Mexican/American sitting at the Bar that the weather reminded me of home. He said “you didn’t have to bring your weather with you”.
Circumstances have changed. Whereas, previously, we could suit ourselves how far we walked each day. Slip-in the odd rest day or bail out early if the going was tough at any time. Now, Finn flies in to Santiago de Compostella on 12 June for two weeks to see us. Sheila feels obliged to be there to greet him. That means we need to cover on average 22 kms per day over the next 9 days, which should not be a problem.
The truth is we are very proud that Rosanna was there to share the first week with us and Finn will be with us at the end of our 900 km pilgrimage.
Our fitness continues to improve. Whilst my feet still ache at the end of the day. They don’t hurt for as long. Sheila, as you will have guessed is coping with the physical demands much better than l am.
Over the last two or three days there has been an increase in the number of pilgrims. The effect is that there is more competition for accommodation. The cheaper end all sells out quickly. So much so that we have taken to booking our accommodation in advance. That isn’t a problem as it gives us a target to aim for each day.
I am told that the last 100 kms gets very busy. 100 kms is the shortest distance a person can walk and be issued with a certificate certifying that you have completed the pilgrimage to Santiago. I’m also told that we will find Santiago very touristy after spending weeks in sparsely inhabited rural settings.
I’ve noticed that there are now more Spaniards walking the Camino than other nationalities. That in itself should not be a surprise but previously, there appeared to be more Germans. I have inserted below a photo showing some of the statistics for one of the albergues we stayed in that I found interesting.
Sheila scrumping nispero. A delicously sweet fruit.
Today was much more enjoyable after it rained all day yesterday. We were drenched.
At 1pm, after 20 kms we arrived in Villaviciosa just 3 kms from this evenings accommodation at Albergue La Ferreria. Villaviciosa is famous for its cider. We had passed orchard after orchard on our approach to the town.
In town we bumped in to Carlos and Mirtes (Winifred) and decided to go together for lunch. A local bartender recommended Casa Milagras reasonably priced homed made fare.
We ordered the menu del dia and were treated to four courses. The first a thick fish soup heavy with shell fish. For course 2, I enjoyed a bean stew with boiled rice. Course 3 was a spanish sytle minced beef, eggs and chips. Finally, I ordered flan (set cold custard with a syrupy sauce) for desert. The meal included a bottle of Rosé and bread rolls. All this for 11 Euros. No wonder they take two hour siestas. You need that long to get through lunch.
Tomorrow is a hard day as we have to walk 28 kms (climbing 440m) to Gijon. Sheila and I are both looking forward to hitting the outdoor shops. We have been been experiencing pilgrim envy because we don’t have all the neccessary kit.
What a fantastic albergue. Sheila normally selects our accommodation. She had decided we would walk from Llanes to Cuerres 25 km and call to reserve accommodation. We arrived about 3.45pm after a casual Sunday stroll. My highlight of the walk was stopping at a hotel in Nueva for refreshments. In the hotel bar they were playing La Tosca at high volume. A very agreeable accompaniment to a bottle of San Mig.
When we arrived at Reposo del Andayón our Brasilin friends Carlos and Mirtes and Lanka from Prague had just arrived before us.
We were invited to join them on the veranda for refreshments and to check in. The first thing we were told is that the owner works very hard to ensure it is an environmentally friendly albergue.
Then it all turned a little scary. Sandra (also Brasilian) informed us that the albergue was built and opened only 18 months ago. She said they had had serious problems last year with bed bugs, which resulted in the albergue closing on two occassions. The first to try an environmentally friendly solution and when that failed to have the whole place fumigated.
She said, that there have been no further outbreaks this year but that they have had to take extreme measures. No-one is allowed to bring any textiles in to the albergue. How this works is all guests are invited to take a shower outdoors and then select the provided leisure/sports wear (it is laundered after each wear) from baskets on the verandah. You are each given a wicker basket to put your phone, book and other things we are going to need during the evening. You then leave everything else with your pack on the veranda.
As this was explained, I become more concerned but everyone appeared to be going along with it so we agreed to.
After we showered and changed in to our borrowed leisurewear, we were shown around inside. It was very comfortable with all the facilites you would expect and appeared to be spotlessly clean.
I had booked the last two beds and so it was fully accupied. In fact later in the evening, the tall thin Swede Johan who we met yesterday turned up without a reservation. The proprietor Katerina provided him with a mattress to sleep on the floor advising us that she tried never to turn pilgrims away.
Dinner was at 8pm and all the guests and Katerina eat together at one large table. Before we started each of us were invited to introduce ourselves and say a little about ourselves. Sat around the table was the Brasian couple, Johan, the Swede, Lanka the Czech, Sheila an me, Kye from Berlin, a young Spanish woman, Grunde the Swede and his wife Nani, Katerina and two Basque guys. Luckily for us it was decided to communicate where possible in English. One of the Basque guys did make the joke, “come and walk the Camino and improve your English”
We enjoyed a satisfying 3 course vegitarian meal with wine (most of the food grown by Katerina) in boisterous company. Katerina said that most people carry around negative thoughts. She said tbat it is easy to quickley forget the positive thoughts. She asled us to partale in an excerise. We were all given a pencil and a piece of paper amd asked to write down all the positive things we experienced that day.
I wote a list of 14 things. I admit I felt in a more positive mindset at the end of the exercise. Katerina says that if you do this daily you will soon naturally adopt a more posive mindset. I’m going to try it.
After the exercise it transpired that two of the company could play the guitar and we were treated to some music. The Spanish girl is very talented. She sung four songs. One in Portuguese, the next in French. Then, an Amy Whitehouse number in English. She finished with a Spanish ballard.
One of the Basque guys treated us to some traditional basque ballards including one he had written himself.
We left this morning after breakfast with me thinking, I can’t remember enjoying a night more.
At the end of day 18 of 37 and 410 kms in to the 830 km pilgrimage to Santiago. It may be an appropriate time to take stock. I’m fitter and stronger than I was 18 days ago. I’m also, 3/4 kgs lighter.
Sheila and I have been overwhelmed at times by the welcome and the hospitality of our Spanish hosts We have met fellow pilgrims from all over the world. Close to 20 different nationalities. Everyone seems to have an interesting story. The camaradrie is heartwarming.
I’ve always loved Spanish cruisine. Let me tell you, if I wasn’t walking 25 kms a day I’d be as fat as a fool. I am enjoying the beer but more so the vino tinto.
The routine we have fallen easily and readily in to includes walking, eating and sleeping each day. This simple existence without many of our normal daily pressures has provided time for reflection. Our daily regime has allowed us to relax a little more than usual and to live more in the moment.
Enjoying a break at the geyser at Bufones de Arenellis
After breakfast at my favourite pension La Arboleda, we set off to find our way back to the Camino. The aim today was to walk the 25 km from Colombres to Llanes. There were two options, the formal route along the N-364 or the recommended coastal path. It was longer with more ups and downs but the advice was that it would be worth it.
Even though it was overcast with a 20% chance of rain, Sheila and I were in high spirits. After a comfortable night and a good breakfast so we struck out for the coast.
The guidebook advised that the scenery today would be the best of the entire route. Gaze up to the Picos de Europa to the south while meandering along clifftops overlooking secluded sandy bays. The low hanging clouds did however detract from the view of the mountains.
We met more pilgrims along the route today than we had on any of the previous days. Lots of Germans in particular.
One of the things I’ve really enjoyed on this pilgrimage are the smells of the countyside. Today we walked through woodland and the smell from the eucalyptus trees was divine.
We past through Pendueles, where we had planned to stop for lunch at 11.30am. It was far too early to eat so we plodded on.
I was looking forward to seeing the geyser at Bufones de Arenillas. When we arrived, there was no geyser. Still it was a lovely spot to stop for a break.
We had a steep 100m climb after Andrin where I enjoyed a most expensive lunch. The viewpoint from the top over two secluded bays complete with surfers, down to Llanes and south to the Picos de Europa was hugely impressive and well worth the climb.
We took the coast road to Llanes instead of the inland footpath forgetting that we had a reservation at Albergue Estación. Whats the worst thing after a 25 km hike… to climb unnecessarily for a kilometre back to your accommodation because you walked past it.
A geat days walking. Sheila and I must be getting fitter and stronger because we are no longer collapsing in a heap at the end of the day. There is no doubt, life is a little better when you are not exhausted.
Our approach to the fantastically preserved medievil town of Santillana del Mar
We stayed in an albergue in Requejada overnight and set off to walk the 22 kms to Cõbreces where we agreed to review the situation to see if we would continue on to Comillas.
After 10 kms we arrived in Santillana del Mar a little confused. Well, its name suggests its by the sea. It is in fact some way from the sea. In fact the sea is not to be seen?
We enjoyed a delighful stop at the church of St Peter near Oreńa. A very helpful volunteer provided refreshments and gave Sheila and I painted Camino shells to wear around our necks. He also advised us where to stay and booked us a room.
We arrived early in Cõbreces and after a picnic lunch we decided to press on the 10 kms to Comillas. This would normally take approx 3 hours. However, we found a shortcut and arrived tired at 4pm and booked in to the very comfortable Hotel Villa.
The scenery today was varied. Starting with an unattractive industrial lanscape around Requejada. It changed dramatically and returned to rolling pastures similar to that in the Alps with mountain pastures offering panoramic views of the mountains. This afternoon when we returned to the coast we enjoyed clifftop views and deserted sandy beaches.
All in all, a marvellous days walk. The only downside is that after 14 days my feet still ache at the end of the day.
Walking along the beach at Somo cooling our hot tired feet. Jani closest ans Sheila and Lisa in the distance.
We left Santander at 7.30am after spending the night in (the spotless) Pension Angeline opp the train station.
We were in good spirits as we walked out of Santander. Once out of the city centre the industrial surburbs went on and on.
We were advised that this is a dull section and that we should take a 2 minute train journey over a bridge to save 8kms of unappealing walking. We jumped at the suggestion.
On the train we caught was a Brasilian woman from Rio who has been travelling the world for two years, Hannah, an Irish woman, Tatiana, a German originally from Slovakia, who now lives in Poland. There was also, an Englishman and his 20 something daughter.
The 9km hike to Clara Campoamor in Requejada was over an uncomfortable stone roadway in a tempurature of 20+°C. Not the most enjoyable afternoons walk. After 7 hours on the road and I estimate 20kms, we were pleased to find vacancies in the Albergue and agreed to walk no further today. The world seemed a much nicer place after a large ice cold glass of beer.
Day 13: Well, it’s flown by. Sheila and I have made it to Santander, 275kms from our start point in Irun. I sit here with a mix of emotions. My overwhelming feeling is one of tiredness after 13 consecutive days walking over and around what I can only describe as mountains. I think the highest we’ve climbed so far is 148m. It may not sound hard when you say it but when you carry a 10kg backpack, I can assure you it’s tough.
I’d meant to start blogging at the start of our Camino de Santiago adventure. The truth is the camera on my iPad is broken and I can’t work out how to upload google photos. So, this blog may not be as colourful as I had hoped.
After a stressful month organising our affairs at home, Sheila, Rosanna and I flew to Biarritz on 8 May. Rosanna was excited to be joining us for the first week of our long distance hike.
The very loose plan was and remains to follow the Camino del Norte and walk the 800kms from the French/Spanish border to Santiago de Compostela. Then, all things being well, to walk a further 80kms on to Finisterre (the end of the world) on the coast.
The road to Santiago is a long-standing catholic pilgrimage that is becoming more and more popular but dates back more than a 1000 years. Catholic’s make the pilgrimage to the shrine of St James whose remains are said to have been buried at the site of the Cathedral.
Nowadays, people from all corners of the world undertake the pilgrimage. They are not all catholics and many are not doing it for a religious purposes. My reason(s) are not entirely clear in my own mind. Undoubtedly, I look forward to the physical challenge. I’m hoping the journey will have a spiritual element. Not necessarily enlightenment but possibly a little clarity would be welcomed. Now, I have retired fully from paid employment, I need to review, reassess and plan this next stage of life.
Wandering Boomers 